Product Review

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Fishing Tips

►  J-Plug Trolling

Forty years ago a derby-winning salmon or lake trout was almost certainly a plug-caught fish. More and more anglers today are switching to J-Plugs because, as in the past, plugs are known to produce more and larger fish on a regular basis. There is a special J-Plug finish available today which will fit any fishing situation, whether you're after salmon, lake trout, stripers, brown trout or other large game fish.

Basic Minnow Image

Today's J-Plug is even better-built and more effective than its predecessors as it's made of super-strong materials and designed for maximum action and strength. Another big difference is the availability of special J-Plug finishes designed specifically for deep water trolling and low light conditions such as the special "Glo" patterns which pick up surface light and give it off down deep. 

J-Plugs are fast-action, darting plugs ideally suited for trolling. They are effective because they project a basic minnow image in the water which all fish relate to in all water conditions. This is a basic, wounded minnow, fast darting action, which comes from a combination of special swivel chain rigging, and lure head chamber design. The precisely engineered tolerance between the rigging and head chamber allows the swivel chain to shift and reposition itself within the chamber. This constantly changes the plug's attitude and direction in the water and creates its fish-catching, erratic, darting action.

The swivel chain rigging also allows a direct rod to fish connection after the strike as the plug body will slide up the line, free of the chain and hook assembly and away from the fish. This eliminates head-shaking leverage against the plug body that causes many fish hooked with solid body-to-hook plugs to break free. Because the J-Plug is buoyant and separates from the hook assembly, it will float to the surface where it can be retrieved in the case of a line break or bottom snag.

The J-Plug is a trolling lure and can be fished successfully with a variety of techniques. Trolling is a most effective fishing method, particularly on big waters, as you can cover the greatest amount of water in the shortest time allowing you to locate concentrations of fish quickly and easily. Following are recommended J-Plug trolling techniques.

Flatline

With the surface or flatline technique, the plug is tied directly to 12- to 20-lb. test main line. No additional weights are used or, at most, a small 1/8- to 1/2-oz. keel-type sinker six ft up the line from the plug. The lure is let out behind your moving boat 50 to 100 ft (anglers fishing for lake trout or brown trout sometimes let out as much as 200 ft of line as these fish can be very skittish of the boat wake) and the troll started. This technique is effective when stripers, lake trout, salmon or brown trout are feeding near the schools of baitfish close to the top or when there is an obvious abundance of other surface activity.

Shallow/Medium

With the addition of a standard keel sinker four to six ft up the line from the J-Plug, shallow to medium depths can be trolled effectively. Sinker weights, depending on the depth desired, for this kind of trolling usually run from 1 to 8 ounces with main line testing from 12 to 30 pounds. Note: Always attach a swivel chain-rigged keel sinker with the single swivel end knotted to your main line and the swivel chain end back to the plug. As in flatlining, let out 50 to 100 feet of line behind your moving boat and begin the troll.

Divers

One effective way to get a plug deep without excessive lead weights, or if you don't have a downrigger, is with a diving sinker such as the Deep Six®, Pink Lady® or directional Dipsy Diver®. Standard rigging is with 4 to 6 ft of leader between plug and diver and 20- to 30-lb. test main line to your rod.

Set the diver to diving position, or in the case of the directional Dipsy® set both the depth and side angle desired, let out 50 to 100 feet of line behind your moving boat (slowly to ensure that no tangles occur) and begin the troll.

Downriggers

J-Plugs often are fished off a downrigger, by themselves (the most popular way). With a downrigger you will be able to work all depths and will have the advantage of no weights between you and the fish once hooked. Anglers who troll J-Plugs by themselves behind a downrigger often prefer 10 to 20 ft (some as much as 40 ft) between the line release and plug. The longer lengths add to the erratic, darting action of the plug.

Dodgers can be used as attractors in conjunction with a #3 J-Plug® behind a downrigger with good results. Size 0 or Size 1 Jensen Dodgers are recommended. Be sure to allow at least six ft of line between the dodger and downrigger line release so as not to inhibit the dodger's action. Allow 20 - 30" of leader between your plug and dodger (shorter leaders impart faster plug action and longer leaders slower action).

Large Plugs/Large Fish

Larger fish do prefer large plugs. Big fish will spend the least amount of energy necessary to catch a meal . . . larger baitfish mean less energy expended to fill up. So, if you're after big salmon or lake trout, use the larger J-Plugs. But, remember that smaller fish often will not attack a large plug so the use of larger plugs, although great for big fish, may prevent you from catching smaller ones.

Some other features and additional tips on fishing and using J-Plugs include: Keep them either in the water or in your tackle box. Extreme heat can deform a plug's shape and direct sunlight can cause the finish to fade. Before placing your plug in the water, check the swivel chain dacron harness for wear and to ensure the knot is cinched tight. If the harness need replacing you may obtain one from a dealer. The dacron harness is 80-lb. test doubled. The hooks that come with the harness are high quality, 4X strong and plated to resist corrosion.

J-Plug Finishes/Colors

Following is a rundown on a few of the more popular finishes and what each represents and accomplishes in the water.  

Metallic:  Highly reflective metallic finishes match the flash and colors of baitfish. Silver, Silver Cut Plug and Silver/Blue Top feature the reflective look of baitfish.

GLO:  J-Plugs are offered in Glo/Blue Top Ladderback and Glo/Florescent Green Top Ladderback finishes. These are designed specifically for deep water trolling because they contain phosphor pigments that give off light down deep. Note that these finishes contain light-sensitive pigments that can be burned and which will turn gray if exposed to strong, direct sunlight. It's best to keep plugs painted with Glo finishes either in the water fishing or stored away in your tackle box so overexposure doesn't occur. For a quick and easy "glo charge" try Luhr-Jensen's handy Power Flash unit which can double as a camera flash attachment.

SPARKLE: Several new sparkle extra-attractive sparkle finishes are now available on J-Plugs®. These include Sparkle Chartreuse/Fire Tiger, Sparkle Chartreuse/Green Tiger, Sparkle Mother-Of-Pearl and Sparkle Fire Tiger. These highly-reflective finishes provide additional strike-enticing action.

J-Plug Trolling Tips

●  Trolling a straight line between two points is the least successful path you can take, once fish have been located in an area. By trolling in zig-zag patterns or in "S" curves, you will impart regular changes in depth and speed to a trolled plug, creating the impression of a wounded, in trouble baitfish which fish will view as an easy meal.

●   Vary your speed. While slow is the password, this does not mean slow all the time. A lure running through the water at a constant speed, at a constant depth and giving off the same vibration pattern will not catch many fish . . . there's just nothing there to indicate an easy meal is available or that something is in trouble. Slowly, yes, but adjust your speed every few minutes to change the lure's speed and vibration pattern.

●   Troll Slowly. Big fish will not expend any more energy than necessary to catch a meal. Also, most lures will not perform correctly at fast speeds. The best advice is to troll slowly — the slower the better.

●   Use a solid knot for connecting your plug to your line or leader such as the improved clinch (see illustration on page 2) and always use a premium quality monofilament line such as Trilene XT which has superior knot strength, small diameter in relation to pound test and is abrasion resistant.

●   Purchase a quality depth sounder such as one of the Bottomline units which will help in locating fish as well as prime underwater fishing structure which can't otherwise be seen.

●   Undoubtedly one of the easiest and least complicated things you can do to improve your fishing results is to make sure all hook points are sticky sharp. The majority of lost fish can probably be traced to dull hooks which prevent proper penetration into the fish's mouth. A small file, such as the Sharp Hook File is the absolute best tool available for sharpening fish hooks. Hold the file parallel to the hook point and, with gently one-way strokes, remove a small amount of metal from at least two sides of the point to obtain both a super-sharp point and a knife-like cutting edge.

●   Keep your plugs above fish as they can't easily see downward. On sunny days fish will be deeper as their eyes are sensitive to strong, direct sunlight.

●   When trolling plugs in salt water you'll find the optimum feeding and fish-catching times during low light periods and from an hour before, during and an hour after a tide change. Fish areas where birds are working on baitfish schools and troll the clean side of rips.

●   In fresh water such as in the Great Lakes, the time of day isn't nearly as critical as the depth and the location of the preferred temperature level for the fish species you're seeking . . . the thermocline. Lakes stratify into three separate layers of water in the spring and stay that way until cold weather hits in the fall. The middle layer of water, where there is a large concentration of dissolved oxygen, baitfish and therefore predator fish, is called the thermocline and can generally be found from 10 to 80 ft down.

●   The peak feeding and optimum temperature for coho and Chinook is 54° with an active range from 54° to 54° For lake trout the peak feeding and optimum temperature is 54° with activity from 54° to 54° Fish will rarely venture out of these zones once stratification has taken place, except to catch a meal and then will quickly return to it. One thing to remember when fishing temperatures layers such as the thermocline is that it can change from day to day in terms of depth because of wind and/or wave action. It may be several ft deeper or shallower one day from the next so you'll have to locate it each and every time you go out.

●   Remember to experiment, troll zig-zag patterns or otherwise constantly change the plug's action, Keep hooks sticky sharp and go prepared with a variety of finishes and sizes . . . there's a J-Plug for every fishing situation.

►  Fishing Dodgers & Flashers

Coupled with the effectiveness of trolling technique, flashers and dodgers are deadly fish attractors in both fresh and salt water. They are rigged in the line between the lure and downrigger release, diver or lead to provide attraction and impart erratic action to trailing lures such as plugs, spoons, flies or plastic squids.

Trolling with dodgers or flashers produces excellent results because you can cover a large amount of water in a very short time, thereby locating concentrations of fish with the least amount of time and effort expended. The flash and sound of these attractors draws fish from considerable distances, allowing you to cover a wider swath of water effectively with each pass . . . a big advantage when prospecting unknown waters or when fish are scattered.

Successful trolling requires knowledge of fish and their habits, proper equipment, the ability to troll various depths and a willingness to experiment with different attractors, lures and color patterns.

Tackle for trolling dodgers or flashers consists of a stout 7- to 9-ft. trolling rod, free-spool-type star drag reel filled with 20- to 30-lb. test premium monofilament line and a downrigger, diver or selection of lead weights to get your offering down into fish territory.

DODGERS vs. FLASHERS

The big difference between dodgers and flashers is the way they run through the water when being trolled. A dodger has a side-to-side swaying action while a flasher develops full 360° rotations. This provides you with two completely different types of attractors, each giving off specific flash and vibration patterns.

Flashers and dodgers impart an erratic, darting action to trailing lures and produce fish-attracting flash and sound. Plugs, spoons, flies and squids all can be used with a dodger, which transfers a crippled baitfish action to these lures. Flies and squids are best used behind an Abe 'n Al® rotating flasher because they have no action of their own in the water and the flasher will give them a lifelike, erratic natural baitfish action.

For dodgers, the correct fish-attracting speed and action is achieved when the attractor has a side-to-side swaying motion. With your boat moving "dead slow", place a rigged dodger-and-lure setup in the water (see illustration) and slowly increase your speed until the dodger has developed the proper action. This is your optimum trolling speed.

Optimum rotating flasher speed, on the other hand, is obtained when the attractor is working in regular full 360° rotations. With your boat in motion, place a rigged flasher-and-lure setup in the water (see illustration) and increase your speed until the flasher develops these regular, full revolutions. Note: Flashers generally work better at slightly faster speeds than dodgers.

Dodgers can be used with a keel-type sinker, behind divers such as the Pink Lady®, Deep Six® or Dipsy Diver® or behind a downrigger release, all of which are diagrammed above.

The most popular color finishes for dodgers and flashers are Chrome, Chrome/Silver Prism-Lite® and Fire. Hammered Chrome flashers and dodgers, however, are being used more and more as they disperse light in all directions as do the Prism-Lite® finishes. In the Great Lakes, Fire, Chartreuse, Watermelon and Kelly Green models are increasingly popular and in the Northwest, White and 50/50 Brass/Chrome are very productive.

FISH PREFERENCES

Following are some helpful tips relating to particular fish species. Although there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to fishing, there are many regularly observed fish habits and preferences that will give you a definite edge if you're familiar with them.

COHO: When the temperature is right in fresh water and during most of their life in salt water, coho salmon are surface or shallow water oriented. They generally can be found at depths less than 50 feet and are a fast fish when compared with Chinook or lake trout. They especially like the fast action of a dodger (#007 or #000 are popular) in combination with flies and squids. The rule of thumb for a fly or squid lure behind a dodger is to use a leader of about 1 1/2 times the length of the dodger. In the Great Lakes, some anglers have been successful with leaders as short as 6". These impart incredibly fast action to the trailing lure. The principle here is to use a longer leader for slower action and a shorter for faster action. Since it is easier to shorten a leader then change to a longer one, start with 12 to 18 inches and then shorten it until you get the desired lure action. A super-fast action fly used in combination with a dodger is deadly for coho. Some effective spoons to try are the Kokanee King, Krocodile, #31 Alpena Diamond and the Coyote.

CHINOOK: When compared with coho, Chinook salmon prefer deeper water and larger, slower-action lures and attractors. They often shy away from unnatural movements in the water, so longer leaders are generally used. The Abe 'n Al® flasher is a proven attractor for deep water Chinook and its lazy, rotating action is often exactly what turns them on. When used with flies or squids, leader lengths between the lure and flasher should be 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 times the flasher length or between 18" and 30". The longer the leader, the slower and more deliberate the action imparted to the trailing lure.

Chinook and coho in most of the Great Lakes grow to trophy size feeding primarily on forage fish. Consequently, the most productive baits for trolling with flashers there are whole herring, plug-cut herring, herring strips and plastic squids baited with a herring strip. Rigged correctly a whole herring will roll in a slight arc at a rate of 1 to 2 revolutions per second. The Herring Aid® provides one of the simplest, most effective ways to rig whole herring to produce an effective rolling action at slow trolling speeds. The #2 size works best in the Great Lakes where alewives average 6 to 7 inches.

LAKE TROUT: As with Chinook, lake trout prefer slow, deliberate-action attractors and lures. Dodger-and-fly, dodger-and-spoon or dodger-and-plug combinations are all effective provided they are fished slowly and deep with adequate leader lengths between the attractor and lure. For lake trout, leaders should be from 16 to 24 inches (sometimes even longer) between the dodger and lure as this will promote slower action from the lure itself . . . an action often productive for lake trout. Small squids and flies, usually rigged with a treble hook if allowed, are preferred. Some good spoons to try are a Krocodile®, Flutter Spoon, Diamond King or Alpena Diamond.

►  Hot Shot Lure

The deadliest boating technique ever developed for catching game fish in rivers is "Hot Shotting" . . . one that derived its name from the Hot Shot® diving plug. The Hot Shot® is a self-planing, diving lure. Its design incorporates a built-in planing bill which makes it dive when pulled through the water . . . the faster it's pulled, the deeper it dives. Because of this built-in, natural swimming action, Hot Shots are often used with no additional weight attached to the line. You simply use the existing river current or reel in line to make the plug dive.

The big advantage of using a non-weighted plug is that the lure will naturally follow the river currents, guiding it around snags and rocks, while still maintaining a position near the bottom, home of most game fish.

When rigging to use Hot Shots, most any rod and reel combination is acceptable. The choice will depend on your personal preference as these plugs can be successfully fished with just about any outfit. However, the "Hot Shotting" technique has resulted in some very specialized rods being manufactured for salmon and steelhead. The Berkley Series One or Fenwick Magnum-Taper "Hot Shotting" rods, have been produced especially for pulling plugs. These rods feature a heavy butt, with a light, sensitive tip that allows maximum visual contact to determine a lure's action. As you become more familiar with the technique, you may wish to purchase one of these specialized rods.

Line weight is important in relation to how deep you wish the plug to dive. Light line will create less water friction and allow the Hot Shot to dive deeper and closer to the bottom, while heavier-test will increase friction and thus shorten the dive.

Note that in order to maintain proper lure action, your line should be tied directly to the round eye snap. Tying a line to the lure eyelet, or using any other type of snap or snap swivel may adversely affect a Hot Shot's built-in action. The Luxon® Duo-Lock snaps provided with each plug are especially manufactured to ensure that only a perfectly-rounded, lightweight wire touches the screw eye on the lure. This creates optimum swimming action and maximum fish appeal.

Another way to fish Hot Shots effectively from shore is to wade out or positioning yourself above fish-holding water and then work slowly down through it by stripping out a few feet of line, stopping for a few seconds, stripping out, stopping and so on.

A Hot Shot can also be worked from the bank with extreme effectiveness by using the Luhr Jensen Hot Shot Side Planer, a compact device which attaches to the line ahead of the plug and which literally lets you navigate the lure from bank to bank.

Yet another effective technique from the bank is the cast, swing, and retrieve method. The Hot Shot S.E. was designed with casting in mind for both the bank and boat angler. The 1/4-oz. model is ideal for trout and steelhead with light line and a spinning rod. The 1/2-oz is perfect for steelhead while the 3/4-oz. size is the choice when it comes to Chinook salmon. Position yourself upstream of the water you wish to cover (such as a tailout) and then cast across and slightly downstream. When the plug hits the water, take several turns on the reel handle to start it diving. Then simply allow the force of the current to maintain the dive as the plug swings back across the river toward you. When the Hot Shot reaches a position close to the bank directly downstream of you, reel in slowly and make another cast.

►  Kwikfish

The Kwikfish® is a "banana-shaped" plug that has high action at even the slowest trolling speeds. Its body shape, weight and lip design make it a diving plug. It can be plunked, trolled or backtrolled from a boat, as well as fished on a flatline (without lead), in combination with a Jet Diver™ or with a lead weight depending on river size, water depth or current speed. Bank fishermen also can effectively fish this lure using the cast/swing/retrieve method.

The Kwikfish can be forward trolled in open water areas such as bays, sloughs or large rivers when the tide or current effect is minimal. Likewise, it can be backtrolled in the same waters when the current is natural or tide-influenced.

BACKTROLLING

With your boat headed upstream above the area you wish to fish, row or run your motor just fast enough to hold even with the current, as though you were anchored. Work your lure (outfit) out downstream below the boat. When you stop letting out line, the current will cause the lure to work. Then allow your boat to slowly slip downstream, keeping the lure actively working as you back your boat and trailing lure through the holding water. Because salmon face upstream, into the current, this technique provides optimum results because fish can see and anticipate the lure coming. Most anglers agree that by watching their rod tip, they can tell just how fast to run their boat. A constantly throbbing tip indicates that the plug is working properly. This technique will produce savage strikes from salmon.

FLATLINING

When trolling or backtrolling in water less than 8 ft. deep, the Kwikfish can be fished without any lead weight. Simply let out 30 to 50 feet of line behind the boat and allow the lure to work in the current. Trolling speed, current speed and the distance the lure is placed behind the boat can all affect how deep the lure dives. Slow current or a short trolling distance (30') produces a shallow dive, while strong current or a long trolling distance (50') produces a deeper dive. Remember, you want your lure to work close to the river bottom.

USING A JET DIVER™

A Jet Diver™ can be used instead of a lead weight when trolling or backtrolling a Kwikfish. Rigging is identical to the free-sliding back-bouncing set-up(see illustration on back) except you replace the lead weight with a Jet Diver™. It's most effective in water 10 - 20' deep with a size 20, 30 or 40 Jet Diver in medium to fast current speeds. Simply let your line (outfit) out 40-60' behind the boat, depending on water depth and current speed.

BACK- BOUNCING KWIKFISH

Riverboat fishermen are back-bouncing Kwikfish® in deeper salmon holes and reporting fantastic results. The technique is much like back-bouncing bait, but with some important differences. With Kwikfish® the amount of weight you use is critical. Too much and it won't bounce out below the boat. Not enough and you may not feel it hit the bottom or you may not be sure where the bottom is in relationship to your Kwikfish®. It is important that it is working within 16 inches of the bottom because that is the zone where most salmon lie.

You'll want to back-bounce or walk your outfit downstream from the boat until your line is at least at a 45-degree angle from the rod tip. Holding your rod at a 30-degree angle, you should be able to drop your rod 6 to 12 inches and feel the lead hit bottom, then lift the rod back up, waiting for the strike. The boat should be backtrolled while holding the rod steady in this position. Every 2-5 minutes, lower your rod again, checking to make sure your outfit is still working near the bottom. If the depth has shallowed up, you'll need to reel in some line. If it has deepened, you'll need to let some out. The idea is to back-bounce your outfit downstream of the boat 15 to 25 feet and lift the lead off the bottom, allowing the lure to work through the holding water with the boat, while you hold the rod steady waiting for a bite. Then every few minutes, check to make sure that you are still working your Kwikfish close to the bottom. This technique is different from backtrolling bait in that you do not continually bounce your lead off the bottom. Salmon strike Kwikfish savagely, so it's very important to hold the rod steady until the fish has pulled hard three or four times. If you yank right away, you'll usually miss the fish. Back-bouncing is the most productive way to fish Kwikfish in deep (even roily) salmon holes.

BAITWRAPPER

(Bait Wrapping Tech Report Here... ) One of the hottest ways of making a salmon-size (K14, K15 or K16) Kwikfish even more deadly is by adding a Bait Wrapper. Developed and used on the Sacramento River in California, it remained a local secret for 25 years before being attempted on other rivers. Veteran Sacramento River guides all agree you'll get more strikes and better hook-ups if you keep a fresh bait wrapped on your Kwikfish. It's fast becoming the most widely-used lure/bait combination and is consistently an excellent salmon producer. 

When wrapping a bait fillet on a Kwikfish remember it should be centered around the belly screw-eye which is the balance point of the lure. Be sure it is tied on with the skin next to the lure. Use a fillet of herring, anchovy or sardine (sardine is most popular and available in most sporting goods stores). Fillet each side away from the backbone and cut into rectangular pieces 3/4" x 2-1/4" for the K14 size, 1" x 2-3/4" for the K15 and 1-1/8" x 3" for the K16. Your bait fillet doesn't have to be exact, but you'll find these sizes to be a handy reference. It's important to have the fillet correctly positioned so that you maintain proper lure action once it's all put together. Split the fillet halfway so it can be fitted around the belly eyelet. Two pound test mono or Kwikfish Stretchy Thread (new) both work for wrapping the fillet in place. Wrap it on with 20 to 30 wraps Finish the mono wrap with several half-hitches, or if using the elastic thread, finish by wrapping five times in the same place and break off, no half hitches are needed with elastic thread if your bait is firm. Your fillet should be changed often, at least every hour. Wrapping your plug with a sardine filet is a chore, but worth the effort. Tip: Wrap up several lures the night before, storing them fresh in a small bait cooler so you're ready for action.

WAIT BEFORE SETTING THE HOOK

For best results in hooking and landing a salmon using a Kwikfish, use a heavy rod (such as a Berkley Air-IM-7 8'6" XH model). When a fish strikes your lure, it is best to let it take your rod down four or five times before you set the hook hard. A salmon striking a bait-wrapped Kwikfish will be the hardest strike that you have ever felt from a fish!

TUNING

As with all diving plugs, your Kwikfish may require tuning to ensure the best possible action. This can be checked by pulling the lure through the water. It should have a side-to-side wobbling motion. However, if it dives to the left, turn the screw eye to the right (clockwise). If to the right, turn it to the left (counter-clockwise). A small pair of needle-nose pliers works best for this fine tuning.

SIZES FOR SALMON

Most anglers use the larger K14, K15 or K16 Kwikfish when going after salmon. Generally current speed is the determining factor when selecting the proper size . Of these sizes, the K14 works best in faster water, the K15 in medium-speed water and the K16 in slower holes.

About Luhr-Jensen™ - The Company

Luhr Jensen and Sons, a company known world-wide for its quality fishing lures and accessories, had its start in an unused chicken coop on a depression-ridden fruit ranch in the upper Hood River Valley of Oregon. But its real beginnings go a little farther back than that -- to the inventive mind of an enterprising man who had, for much of his life, found both peace and excitement at the handle of a fishing rod, and who used that enthusiasm to found a thriving business.

Luhr Jensen, Sr. was born on March 30, 1888, in Ironwood, Michigan, the son of German born parents.  In 1909, Luhr came to the Hood River Valley. He had seen an advertisement printed by the government, encouraging rural settlement of that promising agricultural area . . . and he had been hooked. Only 21 years old, the young Jensen was anxious to move west to seek his fortune in the agricultural or lumbering industry of the area, and to find a new home for himself and, eventually, for his mother, sister and stepfather, Wesley Shannon.

For several years Luhr courted his wife-to-be, Clarice Remington Davenport, the daughter of a pioneer lumberman and mill manager for whom he worked. They were married in 1914 after he had purchased a 10-acre stump farm which adjoined the acreage that had been previously purchased and cleared. Luhr and Clarice settled down to what they thought would be country living at its best. But that failed to materialize.

Most of the times were very hard. He worked long hours in the local lumber mill and attempted to raise chickens at home. This latter effort was responsible for the construction of two 20x100 ft buildings which were never occupied by poultry because of an epidemic that totally wiped out the chicken population in the valley at that time. However, the buildings were ultimately put to good use. The newer one was remodeled to replace the family home which had been destroyed by fire in 1929. The other housed the equipment for the embryo fishing tackle business which he started in 1932.

Luhr was 41 when the Great Depression hit.  Quitting his job at the mill, Luhr bought a Sears & Roebuck suit and went to selling radios -- the big floor models that families used to sit around while listening to President Roosevelt talk about the good times to come. 

He also had a lot more time for one of his favorite pastimes . . . fishing! He had always been an ardent angler, whether sitting peacefully in a rowboat or casting from the banks of the Deschutes River.  He also was always searching for a better means of luring fish. He visited the Boyle Fishing Tackle Company in Portland one day, ostensibly to buy spinner parts -- wire, clevises, beads, spinner blades -- in order to assemble them in his own fashion. But the owner, perhaps sensing competition, refused to sell him the unassembled materials. So, he returned home that day with a second-hand, manually-operated printing press -- hoping to stamp out his own blades.

With a handful of employees cutting, assembling and polishing, and with his teenage son and daughter working after school, the business grew. They worked hard -- the company prospered and they were able to pay off the debts that had been incurred. With a growing product line and a sudden thirst for expansion, the company moved strongly into new markets and, adding products from several other companies that were acquired, watched sales grow from a 1960-base of about $250,000 to well over $1 million by 1970.

Today the company now employs more than 250 people and enjoys world-wide sales in excess of $12 million annually

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